Worth saying plainly up front: the mechanics we work with are electric and hybrid specialists. If you are buying a petrol or diesel car, a general mechanic will serve you better and we will tell you so. If there is a high-voltage battery under the floor, this is the inspection built for it.
What a pre-purchase inspection is actually for
It is not a roadworthy certificate and it is not a warranty. A pre-purchase inspection exists to answer one question while you can still walk away: what is wrong with this car, and what will it cost to put right?
The value is in the timing. Every fault found before you pay is a negotiating position. The same fault found afterwards is your bill. That gap is the whole argument for having one done — and it is why the inspection should be booked and paid for by the buyer, never arranged by the person selling the car.
What we check
The conventional inspection is all still there — structure, panels, paint depth, suspension, steering, brakes, tyres, lights, interior and a road test. On top of it sits the part a general workshop is not equipped for.
Battery state of health, measured
Usable capacity and cell voltage spread read from the vehicle's own battery management system and recorded against the VIN — not estimated from the range display. It is the largest single number in the car's value and the one nobody else reports.
High-voltage system integrity
Isolation testing, contactors, cabling and evidence of previous high-voltage repair work. These need specific equipment and a specific safety procedure.
Charging tested live
AC on site, and DC where a charger is available. Intermittent charging faults do not reliably appear in a stationary scan, so the only honest way to test charging is to charge the car.
Recall and campaign status
Outstanding manufacturer recalls and service campaigns checked against the VIN, plus where the battery warranty stands — term, distance limit and capacity floor.
Repair history the seller did not mention
Paint depth measured around the car. On an EV whose pack sits inside the floor structure, an undisclosed repair matters more than it would on a conventional car.
How it runs
You send us the listing and the seller's details. We contact them, arrange access and a time, and match the job to a mechanic equipped for that platform. You do not need to be there — most of our clients are not, and some are interstate.
The written report lands inside 24 hours: the measured battery figure, costed defects with photographs, and a plain verdict — buy, negotiate or walk. Then we call and talk it through. Plenty of the cars we inspect come back clean, which is a useful result too.
Common questions
How much does a pre-purchase car inspection cost?
Our Essential inspection is $349 and Complete is $479, both including GST and mobile call-out inside our service area. Complete adds live AC and DC charge testing, thermal imaging, drive unit checks and a debrief call.
Do you inspect petrol and diesel cars?
No. We are electric and hybrid specialists, and we would rather say so than take the booking. For a conventional car a general mechanic or a motoring club inspection is the right service.
Can the seller refuse an inspection?
They can, and it tells you something. Reputable private sellers and every legitimate dealer will allow an independent inspection. A refusal, or heavy pressure to sign before one can happen, is the clearest warning sign in used car buying.
How long does a pre-purchase inspection take?
Essential takes around 90 minutes on site. Complete takes two to three hours because it includes a road test and a live charge session. The written report follows inside 24 hours.
Do I need to be there for the inspection?
No. We deal with the seller, complete the inspection and send you the report. You are welcome to attend, but most people do not, and it removes the awkwardness of asking hard questions face to face.
Get it checked before you pay, not after.
Independent, mobile and measured. Anywhere in Brisbane, Sydney or Melbourne, Monday to Friday.