Guide 03 · Checklist

Used EV buying checklist.

Twelve checks you can do yourself, standing in the seller's driveway, in about twenty minutes. They won't replace a measured battery test, but they'll tell you whether the car is worth going further with.

By the EV Inspection team · Updated 2 August 2026 · 4 min read

Before you leave home

Ask the seller for the VIN, the build year (not just the compliance year), the exact variant, and a photo of the charge screen at 100%. Ask them to have the car at around half charge when you arrive — a pack sitting at 100% or nearly flat hides things. If a seller won't do any of that, you've learned something already.

The twelve checks

1. 01

   Range at 100%, photographed

   Compare it against the original WLTP figure for that variant. A small shortfall on a three-year-old car is a conversation. A large one is a reason to walk unless the price already reflects it — and only a diagnostic read will tell you which you're looking at. Read why this is only a rough signal in the battery health guide.

2. 02

   Charging history and habits

   Ask how they charged: home AC overnight, or DC fast chargers most of the time? Did they leave it at 100% in the sun? Neither answer is disqualifying, but the mix tells you how hard the pack has worked.

3. 03

   Charge port condition

   Torch it. Discoloured or melted pins mean heat, and heat means a fault somewhere in the charging chain. Check the latch works and the flap seal isn't perished — water in a charge port is expensive.

4. 04

   Rear brakes

   The classic EV weak point. Regenerative braking means the rear friction brakes barely get used, so discs corrode and calipers seize. Look for scored or heavily rusted rear discs — very common on cars that live in the Redlands and bayside suburbs.

5. 05

   Tyres — all four

   EVs are heavy and torquey, and they eat tyres. Uneven inner-edge wear points at alignment or suspension; mismatched brands across an axle on a dual-motor car is a red flag. Budget for a full set if they're below 4mm.

6. 06

   Underbody and battery tray

   Crouch down at the sills. Scrapes on the battery tray, missing aero panels, or fresh sealant where there shouldn't be any all suggest an impact — and any impact under an EV is a battery question, not a panel question.

7. 07

   Warning messages in ready mode

   Sit in it, put it in ready, and read the screen properly. "Reduced power", "service required" or a 12-volt battery warning are all worth stopping for. Some faults clear on a restart, so ask when it was last driven.

8. 08

   Drive it, and listen

   Twenty minutes, mixed roads. Feel for regen that fades or grabs, a whine from the drive unit that rises with speed, clunks over bumps and a steering wheel that isn't centred. Silence makes every noise easier to hear — use that.

9. 09

   Software version and recalls

   Check the firmware version in the settings menu and look the VIN up against the manufacturer's recall list. Outstanding battery or charging recalls are common on early cars, and they're free to fix — but only if someone books them in.

10. 10

    Battery warranty transfer

    Most packs carry around eight years of cover with a capacity floor near 70%. Confirm the remaining term, that it transfers to you, and that servicing has been done to whatever standard the warranty requires.

11. 11

    Paperwork and PPSR

    Match the VIN on the car to the paperwork, then run a PPSR check for finance owing and written-off status. It costs a few dollars and it's the cheapest protection you'll buy all week.

12. 12

    Get the battery measured

    Everything above is visible from the outside. Usable capacity, cell balance, isolation resistance and charging behaviour aren't — they need tools. That's the point at which you book an inspection, before any deposit changes hands.

Three things that should stop the deal

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